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Dovetail

Dovetail
103 W. 77th St., New York, NY
www.dovetailnyc.com
212.362.2800

tuesday, january 25, 2011

I approached the restaurant located on the northwest corner of 77th and Columbus Avenue (next to Shake Shack), and I wasn’t quite sure which door was the entrance to the restaurant. The entrance was unadorned and quite unassuming, but I walked into what I thought was the entrance and was greeted by a friendly, welcoming host and hostess. I made my reservations online the evening before via OpenTable for a party of two during lunch for restaurant week. Unfortunately, however, my co-worker could not make it, so I was dining solo. I told the host my name and that I would not be accompanied by anyone else for the afternoon. The hostess took my coat and scarf, and led me to a table for two in the back of the dining room on the ground floor. The layout and décor of the restaurant reminded me of a 1970s living room in Southern California, like the one in the Brady Bunch. The dining room was well-spaced with a cozy and warm ambiance—lots of brown, oaky colors. The crowd for lunch on a Tuesday afternoon during restaurant week was diverse. Sitting to my right were an older man and woman who appeared to be friends, chatting about old and new films over post-meal coffee. In front of me sat a party of four young professionals, indulging in glasses of red wine to prepare their taste buds for the 3-course meal that would follow. The dining staff was extremely friendly; they kept my glass full, changed my plate and silverware settings promptly between courses and were sufficiently accommodating. From the restaurant week menu, I ordered a creamy risotto to start, braised lamb as my entrée and eagerly awaited my dessert, a guilty pleasure of mine—chocolate tart.

Before my appetizer was served, my server brought out warm, delicious bread to accompany my meal. The risotto was of humble portion, presented in a clean, tidy fashion. It hit the spot on such a grossly cold day; the duck confit was yummy. For the main course, I enjoyed the braised lamb, which was a dish with a vast array of flavor and texture. The presentation of the entire meal was very clean and simple; they had big plates with the food centered, surrounded by the whiteness of the porcelain. Each course was a showcase of culinary art, on display in the center spotlight of the plate. After enjoying the tenderness of the lamb, complimented by the subtle spicy kick of the persillade and the different textures of the crispy polenta, mustard and spaghetti squash, I progressed into meal cool-down mode with a cup of coffee (milk and 2 sugars). The delicious coffee went great with their baked chocolate tart, served with salted caramel, pretzels and beer ice cream. The saltiness of the pretzels accented the sweetness of the tart, which was rich and smooth. I had never had beer ice cream before, but I liked it so much, I almost asked for more. Overall, the food was well prepared, diverse in taste and elegant in presentation. I came, I saw, and I devoured.

My experience at Dovetail was one that I would happily repeat on another occasion and would recommend to friends, family and strangers looking for a satisfying meal in the Brady home, highlighted an warm, inviting atmosphere, friendly service and well-presented food. I look forward to going back and trying the rest of their menu. But don’t forget to try the beer ice cream!

Creamy Risotto – duck confit, rosemary, cabbage

Braised Lamb – persillade, mustard, crispy polenta, spaghetti squash

Baked Chocolate Tart – salted caramel, pretzels & beer ice cream.

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